Making The Connection: Where Our Pets Come From

A friend of mine texted me recently asking why pet stores were bad. An acquaintance of hers was looking to "buy" a puppy and she wanted to share with her friend why pet stores were bad but wasn't exactly sure why so she asked me. Since, it seems, that a lot of people either don't know (or don't want to know) that  pet stores and certain breeders are "bad",  or know but aren't sure why, I figured a good way to share the voice of the voiceless was to discuss the subject here. Please understand this is not an attack or judgement on those who may have purchased pet store pets as I myself purchased from a pet store at a time before I was made aware. Instead, understand that this is a sharing of knowledge.

I have been an animal lover forever. Years ago I was a more active animal activist and a vegan. In the last 8 years I have been an animal rescue volunteer for various rescue organizations and shelters. As a result of my lifestyle choices I have learned and have seen many of the ins and outs of animal exploitation, abuse and neglect. Many of those who have suffered at the mercy of irresponsible breeding have ended up in rescue and at my door. Those, are the lucky ones. Fortunately, or unfortunately, I am able to speak fairly knowledgeably on the subject (though there is always room to learn). Most people do not want or rather don't have the ability to learn about these harsh realities which require a certain degree of tolerance or "stomach" if you will. I've always spared others the forceful methods that some activists - good-intentioned as they may be - sometimes utilize. My goal was to educate where knowledge was sought and not burn any bridges.

That being said, should you find this subject too intense to swallow feel free to stop here. Those of you who wish to increase your knowledge on the subject and widen the pool of awareness read on about a subject you may have the opportunity to share and help animals in need. Though I could go into much detail, I have opted to provide the basics on the subject.

How Much Is That Doggie In The Window?

That adorable puppy you see in the pet store has a story behind it that pet store owners don't want you to know and that pet store staff are usually misinformed about.  A sign in a local pet store here says "We don't buy from puppy mills, our puppies come from local breeders". Perhaps they even believe that by buying from local breeders they are doing something right. Don't let them fool you.

The price you pay for a pet store puppy or any other pet store pet for that matter is the life of another animal in several aspects. But let's talk about where pet store animals come from first.

First, there are three ways a pet store obtains it's animals.
1. from a puppy mill where animals are abused, neglected,  over-bred and not genetically tested
2. from a local breeder who doesn't care who gets their puppies and very likely did not perform genetic testing on their animals in order to improve the breed or weed out genetic disorders
3. by breeding animals themselves in a very irresponsible, unhealthy and possibly cruel way.

Puppy Mills

The harsh reality of puppy mills is that animals are used over and over for breeding throughout their lives in terribly neglectful and abusive environments. A picture is worth a thousand words so to see what puppy mills actually look like click here. The animals are about money. Breed as many dogs as possible as many times a year as possible, sell the puppies to the highest bidder and repeat until the bitch can no longer produce at which point she will be killed or tossed, very often, in an inhumane way. The puppy that ends up in the pet store is, indeed, cute but the manner in which he or she came to be and arrived in that pet store is nothing short of heinous and should be a crime.

Backyard Breeders & Irresponsible Breeders

These can be either ignorant people who believe that breeding their dog is a good idea because they can make money, because the miracle of life would be a great experience for their kids, because puppies are fun, because their dog is so cute and they want one just like him/her
OR
people who breed in their home to sell to brokers and pet stores to turn a quick buck. The difference isn't much when it comes to the quality/health of the puppies they are breeding, the effect that their actions have on the animals they are breeding,  the homeless pet population and where the puppies end up.

Responsible breeders breed for very different reasons than these other two groups. So many other groups have put together such a wonderful reference on the difference between responsible vs. irresponsible breeders I feel it best to refer to them to explain. Below is the best collaboration of the differences taken from pbrc.net:

Responsible Breeder	Backyard Breeder
"Into" Dogs (shows, training, clubs, etc.)	Not "into" dogs (has "pets" around the house)
Belongs to dog clubs and organizations	Is not involved in the "dog world"
Proves quality of dogs and suitability for breeding by competing for titles and certificates in conformation, obedience, agility, field trialing, Schutzhund, herding, tracking, earthdog trials, etc.	Quality of dogs is almost always substandard, however, he does not test his dogs in shows or trials (Dogs are just pets or "breeding machines")
Pups' pedigrees are filled with dogs who have obtained show titles/working certificates; never breeds dogs without "papers"	Pedigrees mostly a list of pets bred by backyard breeders; pups may not even have "papers"; may be mongrels (Cockapoos, etc.)
Supports rescue groups; knows his actions inevitably play some part in pet overpopulation and euthanasia (one of every four dogs in shelters is purebred). Even with all his efforts to stem over- population, he knows "cracks" will lead to canine deaths	Honestly believes that because he places/sells all his pups, he does not contribute in any way to the needless slaughter of millions of dogs per year in shelters (Does not see his role in his pups making pups and them making more pups and so on)
Knowledgeable in every facet of breed, including that of health issues/defects; researches genetics when choosing mates	Not particularly educated about breed, often not aware of his own breed's genetic defects; does not consider mate's genetics
Knowledgeable about house breaking, training, socializing, breeding, health; constantly reads dog-related materials	Has own ideas which may not coincide with professionals' opinions; won't bother to read any of the hundreds of dog books available
Can and will help and educate puppy buyers re these issues	Says "Goodbye" and "Good luck"
Willing to give you his references	Has no references
Knows his puppies' ancestry	Knows nothing about the other dogs on puppies' pedigrees
Follows up on puppies' well-being; collects health information affecting his dogs	Does not concern himself with the puppies' well-being or how puppies' health affects his breeding "plan"
Breeds to improve his own dogs, his bloodlines and the breed	Breeds just to breed or make money or see his "great dog" procreate
Rarely breeds as he does not use dog breeding as a business and strives for quality, not quantity	Breeds regularly if for money or if puppy mill; if for ego, breeds once in awhile, or "just once" before neutering or spaying
Rarely repeats a breeding	Often repeats breedings, mainly those that are cheap and convenient.
Breeds only dogs which meet breed standard	Dogs used for breeding rarely meet breed standard
Breeds only dogs with stable temperaments	Breeds shy/aggressive dogs with poor temperaments
Breeds only dogs over 2 years old, and a limited number of times	Breeds dogs at almost any age, and any number of times
Mate choice could be anywhere in the country (almost never breeds his own males to his own females)	Mate choice is that which is convenient, cheap, local (very often owns both sire and dam)
Does all genetic testing and will provide proof; does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of defects	Does no genetic testing; ignorantly breeds defective animals or those which are carriers, thus, perpetuating disease in breed
Puppies are sold from waiting list created before breeding even takes place	Puppies are sold after birth in the local newspaper, first-come, first-served
Pet-quality pups generally cost $500-600+ (show-quality costs more)	All pups are pet-quality and are relatively cheap, usually $200-$400
Puppies are sold with health guarantees	Puppies are sold with no guarantee
Puppies are sold with contracts	No contracts; does not care what you do with puppies
Requires pups back if new homes don't work out	Says "Find them good homes"
Dogs on property are friendly, socialized, trained	Dogs on property may be aggressive or shy, and untrained
Does not own more dogs than he has room, time or money for; Dogs are groomed, exercised, healthy, happy	Puppy mills are overloaded, "warehoused" dogs are not groomed or exercised, don't look healthy or happy
Will show you pups' parents if available, or if not, will have pictures	Might have to "lock up" pups' aggressive or shy parents (dogs that should never have been bred)
Raises puppies indoors	Raises puppies outdoors
Stays home to care for puppies	Dam and pups are alone for long hours
Feeds only premium dog food	Feeds cheap, grocery store dog food (containing 4D meat/chemicals)
Visitors remove shoes and wash hands to prevent spread of parvovirus	Has no understanding and takes no precautions to prevent puppy-killer disease
Keeps pups with mom and litter a minimum of 49 days to ensure sibling socialization and important lessons from pups' mother	Doesn't know leaving litter earlier can cause lifelong temperament problems or staying too long can hurt bonding with humans
Socializes pups by systematically handling them and exposing them to various noises, children and other animals before sending them to new homes	Does not understand or want to be troubled with any kind of training; just tries to keep puppies quiet and contained until sold
Tests pups to match their temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities and lifestyles	Knows nothing about puppy-testing or matching puppies with buyers; allows buyers to pick the "cutest" one
Can honestly evaluate pups' quality	Says all pups are high quality
Never sells to "impulse" buyers	Is not concerned about buyers being prepared for pups
Never sells two pups at the same time to a novice	Would consider this killing two birds with one sale
Interviews prospective buyers, checks home and references, refuses to sell to substandard homes	Sells first-come, first-served to whomever has the cash; does not find out which homes are substandard
Wants to meet whole family; won't sell if children are abusive	Does not consider anything past obtaining the funds
Sells only to buyers with disposable income (AKC reports it costs $1327 per year to properly care for a dog)	Is not concerned whether or not buyers can afford to properly care for pups
Waits for buyers who offer lifelong homes (Knows that only 30 percent of all dogs stay in one home throughout their lives)	Does not reject high-risk buyers: (renters, young people, those with poor track records, low income, other pets, dogs kept outdoors)
Understands dogs are "pack" animals; sells pets only to buyers wanting to make pup an indoor dog and part of the family	Doesn't care if pups live as outdoor dogs or chained dogs, being unhappy or anxious being isolated and separated from "packs"
Sells only to buyers who make pup's safety a priority	Does not consider pups' best interests
Encourages or requires buyers to spay/neuter pet-quality pups	Encourages buyers to breed, regardless of quality
Encourages buyers to train pups; refers to good trainer	Shows no concern for pups after sale; knows no trainers
Makes sure buyers understand pup's considerable need for time, attention, exercise and training	Does not provide even his own dogs with enough time, attention, exercise or training
Responsible Breeders Improve the Breed	Backyard Breeders Damage the Breed

The problem with puppy mills & irresponsible breeders is not only that they are using animals as machines and abusing them, but also the effects their selfish and uncaring actions have. The effects on the puppies who may be born with defects, congenital disorders or conditions and some that don't show up for a few years and when informed about these disorders these breeders take no responsibility or concern for the sick puppy or any of it's litter mates who may also be affected. The effects on homeless animals who could have gone home with someone who instead bought from a breeder leaving homeless animals to be euthanized or to languish in a shelter. The effects on the already staggering problem of pet overpopulation.

What You Can Do

• Contact your congressman and ask them to support stricter rules on breeders and puppy mills.
• Spread the word about what you know with someone who doesn't or who may be considering buying a pet. 
• Promote www.petfinder.com where animals of every kind can be found for adoption including fish, small animals, dogs & cats, farm animals and reptiles.
• Have your pet spayed or neutered and avoid unwanted litters and an un-altered pet's desire to wander for a mate. (It has many health benefits too!)
• Educate, share and inspire.

Take with you these statistics from ASPCA:

• Approximately 5 million to 7 million companion animals enter animal shelters nationwide every year, and approximately 3 million to 4 million are euthanized (60 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats). Shelter intakes are about evenly divided between those animals relinquished by owners and those picked up by animal control. These are national estimates; the percentage of euthanasia may vary from state to state.
• According to the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy (NCPPSP), less than 2 percent of cats and only 15 to 20 percent of dogs are returned to their owners. Most of these were identified with tags, tattoos or microchips.
• Twenty-five percent of dogs who enter local shelters are purebred. (Source: NCPPSP)
• Only 10 percent of the animals received by shelters have been spayed or neutered. About 75 percent of owned pets are neutered.
• The majority of pets are obtained from acquaintances and family members. About 15 to 20 percent of dogs are purchased from breeders, and 10 to 20 percent of cats and dogs are adopted from shelters and rescues. (Source: Ralston Purina and NCPPSP)
• More than 20 percent of people who leave dogs in shelters adopted them from a shelter. (Source: NCPPSP)
• Five out of ten dogs in shelters and seven out of ten cats in shelters are destroyed simply because there is no one to adopt them.

And encourage everyone you know to Spay/Neuter, ADOPT and love a shelter or rescue pet.

Think occasionally of the suffering of which you spare yourself the sight

~Albert Schweitzer

Safety For Pets

Boy oh boy where to start on this one. There are so many things we can do to make our pets' lives safer. We want to be cautious without being paranoid but we also don't want to be remiss and throw caution to the wind. Here are a few every day things every parent should know to make a safer home for their pets.


Household Toxins
I can't take credit for this list but I can certainly give thanks to Drs Foster & Smith for compiling such a great reference on pet poisons and toxins. It's a good reference to keep on hand and saves me quite a bit of typing :) Read through and familiarize yourself with common toxins you may have in your home. Don't forget, toxins aren't just chemicals but also certain foods. Foods that are safe for us may not be safe for our pets for example chocolate (bakers is highest danger, milk is on the lower end), onions, a certain amount of garlic, grapes, raisins and some other foods too!

Pet Poisons & Toxins

Also important to be aware of poisonous plants. Always watch your pet to be sure they aren't chewing on any of these around the yard or in your home. Where grass is concerned, it's not the grass that's unsafe to eat but the pesticides or other chemicals grass can be treated with. If your dog or cat likes to chew on grass pet stores like Petco & Petsmart sell petsafe grass to satisfy their need to weed. ;)

ASPCA's List of Toxic & Non-Toxic Plants 

Hidden Dangers 


Sometimes the very products and accessories we buy made specifically for our pets can be a hazard to their health. We can't very well live life in a bubble but we can take care to be vigilant and take the proper precautions to help avoid dangers.

Collars
Collars are not outright dangerous but they do have some hidden dangers. As you will notice on some products that they indicate "Not to be used for tieout". That is because some collars will snap if pulled hard enough and are meant to do so for safety reasons. Buckle collars, training (choke & prong) collars do not have this snapping feature. Under NO circumstances should a choke or prong collar be worn by a dog EXCEPT WHEN TRAINING or WALKING! For me, the main function of my dog's collars are for identification. For walking purposes I prefer to use a harness to avoid putting pressure on the trachea when walking - this is especially for my pugs and very important for all brachycephalic breeds. My personal preference is to balance the pull throughout the dog's body rather than on just the neck and throat. My goal is to avoid tracheal irritation and injury. My personal favorite is the Puppia Harness which seems to rub less and be more breathable and comfortable. There are a variety of collars and harnesses out there so if you need help choosing, feel free to ask ;)

Collars should be worn for identification but always be cautious to leave collars off when your dog is playing with another dog, in a crate or on a deck where their collar can get snagged or stuck between small spaces. I love collars, I have a friend who makes beautiful collars I can't resist. My dogs must have about 20 collars each! My personal feeling, however, is that collars should only be worn when owners can supervise. I prefer to leave my collars off my dogs when I am not around to supervise as I know there's no way they can leave the house without me there ;) They are also microchipped should anything happen. Cats should wear collars in case they get out or if they are outdoor cats so someone knows they belong to someone. They make special safety collars for cats that break away in the event they get snagged on something.

If you leave your dog's collar on during the day unsupervised because he/she is a door-dasher and bolts for the door anytime anyone comes in consider blocking off any entrances to the door, teaching your dog a strong sit-stay at the door or keeping them in a room of the house where they cannot get to the front door. Most of my clients do leave their dog's collar off for safety reasons and I put it on and take it off before and after walks. I think it's a good idea as a preventative measure. Although it may never happen, I feel it's always better to err on the side of caution.

If you still feel more comfortable leaving your dog's collar on during the day check out a company called Chinook & Co. They make collars for dogs called The Keepsafe Breakaway Collar that are meant to snap open with enough force. They won't snap open or "breakaway" when walking because they have an override feature that solves this problem. The owners of this company invented this collar when their dog Chinook passed away from an accident involving his collar (read "about us" section of site to read their story).

Toys
Toys are made for dogs and cats but as with collars it is important to supervise with most of them. Chewing off small pieces, swallowing large chunks, gastrointestinal obstructions & tears are all real concerns. In my recent post Dog Toys you will find all the information you need to know about certain dog toys and which are safe to leave with your dog unsupervised. I have yet to review cat toys so keep posted! But always watch those cats and what they like to put in their mouths (mine loves my computer wires!!!) If you have questions, ask!

Household Items
Unfortunately dogs can't always tell the difference between a toy and what's not a toy. Some dogs have serious chewing instincts and will go for whats there and what feels good to chew on. Especially puppies! It's important to puppy-proof (and dog-proof!) your home if you know your little buddy likes to get into trouble. If an item is big enough, stringy enough or sharp enough it can get lodged, twisted in or cause a tear in the gastrointestinal system no matter what it is.

If you can think of any other items you'd like to add to this list, feel free to email me at sitdogstay@gmail.com and I'll be happy to add them or answer any questions you may have.

As always...keep giving back what your pets give to you endlessly - LOVE!

Ideas for Dogs

In this business I get a lot of questions from pet owners asking for help with their dogs. Sometimes it's about food, sometimes it's about behavior, sometimes it's about what products to buy, so in the next few posts I'm going to address some of the most common questions posed by pet owners. Today's topic is anxiety and nervous behavior in pets.

Yes pets can have anxiety! It can come from genetics, can be learned, can be due to lack of structure, consistency or confidence and can arise after traumatic situations. Anxiety and nervousness can occur regularly or in certain situations like when your pet is alone or not by your side. Pets who suffer from anxiety can display it in a number of ways. They may suffer from anxiety only in your absence or they may display anxious behaviors even when you are home. They may act out in your absence by displaying destructive behavior or by eliminating in your home. They may drool excessively, vomit or lick themselves obsessively. Some dogs have such high levels of anxiety in certain situations they may even self-mutilate or attempt escape to the point of harming themselves. Some dogs will display anxiety even in their owners' presence when exposed to loud noises like fireworks or thunder or when presented with unfamiliar situations, people or animals.

Pets who suffer from anxiety should be seen by a vet and it's not a bad idea to seek the advice or counsel of a behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist as well. Often such professionals schooled in animal behavior can offer tips and treatments for anxiety and veterinary behaviorists can also prescribe medication to help ease your pet's anxiety if needed.

Aside from medications there are some things you can do at home to help make your pet feel more comfortable both at home with you and in your absence. Below are some solutions to common pet anxiety triggers:

Music
 Music and even spoken word/talk radio can be a comfort to your pet while you are gone. Some companies such as Through A Dog's Ear have developed music specifically for pets based on research that indicated that specially designed recordings can have a positive and calming effect on the nervous system of both humans and dogs. Some studies have indicated that having human voices present in the home while owners are gone can help to soothe pets by giving them a sense that someone is present. For this reason, some owners will leave on talk radio or television for their pets while they are gone. I like to leave on the "soundscapes" music channel on my television which is new age and relaxation music meant for meditation and relaxation. Sounds of nature and soothing instruments help to provide a calming environment. Not only do I put it on when I leave my pets but when I'm home too and need some relaxation!

Activity
During your absence, give your dog something to do. Have someone come in once or several times throughout the day to give your dog some exercise and activity but also provide things for your dog to do while they are alone. Some great tools for this are interactive toys and treat dispensing toys. It's a great idea to even feed your dog from treat dispensing toys when you're home and when you're not! Below are some great toys specifically designed to stimulate your dog's interest and your dog's mind:

KONG Products
Tug-A-Jug
Buster Cube
Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble

And a WONDERFUL website for finding puzzle toys, games and interactive toys for your dog:

Active Dog Toys

and

Nina Ottoson Toys

Holistic & Natural Remedies
Some pet parents have found help with holistic remedies like Bach's Flower Remedies: Rescue Remedy which has ingredients that promote a calming effect on both people and dogs. A few drops in your pet's water or in their mouth can help soothe your dogs. Not as effective for highly anxious dogs but can be effective to just take that "edge" off for nervous dogs.

Another product with good reviews from pet parents are Dog and Cat Appeasing Pheromones that come in plug-in type diffusers. A company called Comfort Zone makes the most popular of these in both canine and feline versions.

There are also some all natural stress relief supplements on the market which are trial and error. I have found some success with Acti-Pet Anxiety Free and there are others that can be found in your local pet supply store that you can try out. Anxiety and stress supplements will usually have ingredients like St. John's Wort, Valerian, Skullcap & Chamomile.

Thunder, Fireworks & General Anxiety Relief
A new product I learned of in a recent issue of my pet products magazine was a product called Thunder Shirts . The product is meant to pinpoint pressure points in a dog's body that help release anxiety, somewhat in the same way massage or acupuncture help to target certain points in the body to release pain, stress, toxins and anxiety. I have not had any personal experience with this product but have heard some good reviews about it from other pet parents and has been well reviewed in several publications.

Some other solutions for thunder and fireworks use the technique of gradual desensitization which is a common method used in behavior modification. By using audio recordings such as those made by a company called Starfire For Dogs owners can help reverse their dogs fear of these sounds. It does require patience as it is imperative you always go slowly with a fearful dog. Rushing or using negative methods, even becoming frustrated or angry during training with your dog only sets a dog back or makes their fears worse.

The solutions out there for helping anxious pets are endless. These are some of the ones I have had some experience with or have gotten great feedback about. If you have any questions about any of the products mentioned here or if you have something you'd like to hear about please don't hesitate to ask! Always remember I am not a vet and what you read here should not be regarded as veterinary advice. Always seek advice from your vet when your pet's health is concerned!

Thanks for reading and stay tuned for our next topic which will cover pet safety. Hug your pets and keep reading!

Dog Toys

Often I come across people who ask what are the best toys for their dogs? What kinds of toys can I leave with my dog during the day? What toys are best for keeping dogs busy? Mental stimulation? Below are descriptions and reviews of some great toys for your dog. Supervision is key with almost every toy your dog will play with and especially so for aggressive chewers. Read on and have fun with your dog!

Chew Toys For Dogs
Chew toys are great for providing mental stimulation, satisfying a dog's need to chew, exercises the gums and teeth and can provide an outlet for energy. When selecting chew toys for your dog be sure to choose the right chew toy based on size, energy level, and level of chewing. Many chew toys indicate whether they are for light chewers or aggressive chewers. Always supervise with any chew toys that can be broken or chewed apart and swallowed.


Rawhide
Rawhides are made of animal hides that have been dried and processed. They come in various sizes, in compressed and knotted varieties and also come flavored. When selecting rawhides be aware that many are processed with chemicals that are harmful to pets so always read labels.  When buying rawhide choose one that appears too large for your dog so they cannot chew and swallow it in a short period of time. Remove the rawhide from your dog when it is small enough to fit in your dog's mouth. Compressed rawhide as opposed to shredded rawhide lasts longer. Rawhides can break teeth and cause intestinal blockage if large pieces are swallowed so always supervise your pet when you give them rawhide. 


Sterilized Bones
These are hard beef bones that are hollow in the middle. Some are sold with stuffing in the middle such as peanut butter or liver flavored stuffing while others are sold hollow. These can be given to your dog to chew and busy them and can be stuffed with many things such as peanut butter, various types of cheeses, or dog food. They are a wonderful alternative to rawhide as they cannot be ingested, however, with aggressive chewers they can tend to wear down and/or crack teeth.  Dogs should be supervised with these if they are aggressive chewers for this reason.They come in a variety of sizes for all sizes of dogs. To increase your dogs interest in sterilized bones you can soak them in chicken or beef broth.


Edible Bones
Edible bones are bones like Booda bones, Greenies and Edible Nylabones. They can help clean dogs' teeth and gums when chewed. They're a great alternative to rawhides and other chews like pigs ears. They don't last as long as other chews and are not for aggressive chewers as they should not be ingested quickly. 


Nylabone
Nylabones are some of my favorites. The gummy nylabones are good for light chewers and the harder nylabones are fantastic for aggressive chewers. They come in every size, in a variety of flavors, are long lasting and safe. An aggressive chewer should never be given the flexible gumabones as they can chew them to pieces and swallow them causing intestinal blockage or choking.


Cow Hooves
Cow hooves are sold in most pet stores and can be stuffed with your dog's favorite filling. As with other chew toys it is important to supervise your pet when chewing on cow hooves as there is possibility to break teeth, be chewed into sharp pieces and cause damage to the mouth, teeth and digestive tracts. 


Cow Ears, Pigs Ears 
Cow/pig ears are made from cartilage and fat and may be smoked or dried. Cow ears have lower fat content than pigs ears. They can be chewed and eaten quickly so are not for aggressive chewers who can swallow big whole pieces and cause digestive upset/blockage. These products CAN contain salmonella so it is important to wash your hands after handling them.


Interactive Toys for Dogs


KONG Toys
KONGs are another favorite of mine. They are bouncy, can be soaked in broth or put into kibble storage bins/bags to pick up the flavor and scent. They are stuffable and can be stuffed with cheese, peanut butter, cream cheese, canned food/kibble, banana or KONG stuffing sold specifically for kongs. They can be stuffed and frozen to provide more time for your dog to get what's inside. They come in a variety of different shapes, sizes and textures for every dog. They can't splinter, puncture, are non-toxic and the safest and most useful of all toys in my opinion. It is, one of the only toys I would recommend as safe to leave with dogs unsupervised.


Buster Cubes & treat dispensing toys 
Treat dispensing toys like the Buster Cube, everlasting treat ball and others are interactive toys that can be filled with treats or kibble. Enticed by what's inside your dog noses and pushes the cube around to get the treats. These are great toys to leave with dogs who are alone for several hours a day. Buster Cubes stimulate a dog’s natural instinct to hunt and provides mental stimulation which in turn can help with behavioral problems and busy a dog who is by himself for several hours. Not recommended, however for aggressive chewers who may actually chew the toy and ingest pieces of it.


Play Toys


Different dogs like different toys so choose based on what stimulates your pet. If you find you have a pet who isn't interested in toys, you may want to create games to play with your dog that involve toys which provides a positive association with toys and encourages your dog to play. 



Balls
Tennis balls & rubber balls are great for fetch but should never be given unsupervised for dogs can chew and ingest the pieces causing digestive upset or blockage. Hard plastic balls should not be used for fetch as they can chip and break dog's teeth. Tennis and rubber balls can also be used with a great tool called The Chuckit! Ball Launcher which is a tool used to pick up and throw a ball for your dog to fetch. Keeps you safe from drool and mud covered tennis balls!


Rope Toys
Rope toys are enticing to some dogs and not to others. They're a great chew toy and can be soaked and frozen for teething puppies but should not be given to aggressive chewers as they can rip, tear and swallow the rope which can cause problems with digestion. Always supervise with these toys.


Squeaky Rubber & Stuffed Toys
Squeaky toys are great for getting your dogs attention during play or even training! Most dogs love the sound of the squeaker but as many are familiar with, many also like to chew them apart just to get to the squeaker. These toys are not meant to be chew toys and dogs should be supervised when playing with them and should be taken away if they begin to chew pieces off. 


Here are links to some of our favorite toys!


Chuckit! Ball Launcher
Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble
Busy Buddy Bouncy Bone
Tug - A - Jug
Nylabone Products
KONG Products
Everlasting Treat Ball
Everlasting Fun Ball
JW Amaze-A-Ball
Buster Cube

Pet Food & Nutrition: What's Healthy, What's Not?

I've been reading a lot over the years about pet food and nutrition and asking vets who give widely varying opinions on the subject. Grain free? Alternative proteins? Canned food? Dry food? What brand? Supplements? It can be absolutely confusing and inundating. Vets don't always help because they don't always have the knowledge and a lot of times are schooled only on what the pet food company representatives tell them. Not good enough.

Thank goodness then for vets like Dr. Karen Becker,  Dr. Pitcairn and other vets who have studied, written about and made it their business to understand pet nutrition. As it turns out, what's most beneficial and healthy for humans is typically the same for dogs and cats with a few exceptions. We'll get to those exceptions later. First, let's talk about what's good. What's most beneficial and healthy is natural. Eating foods that come from nature and are in their natural state. Lean proteins, raw vegetables, healthy grains. Therefore, the ideal diet for dogs would be a raw food diet, followed by home cooked meals using nutritionally complete pet recipes or pre-made mixes like Sojo's, Dr. Harvey's or Grandma Lucy's. These things, though healthy do need to be prepared with care and with the proper ingredients and preparation. In order to do so, using the pre-made mixes makes it easier as does following recipes in books like Dr. Pitcairn's New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats and Dr. Becker's Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats. 

Dr Becker has written several articles on the subject of dog food which I cannot do justice to explain, therefore I am linking to her article on mercola pets and please feel free to search more of her food articles on the site! Subscribe to her newsletter to get daily pet information in your email inbox too they are all entirely helpful and informative.

13 Pet Foods Ranked From Great to Disastrous

What you need to understand about commercial pet foods is that the industry is not well regulated and you need to be very educated about what you're reading on the label. You would NOT believe what goes into some pet foods simply because it's cheap filler and they don't have to list it specifically on the label. It truly does include things like diseased animal parts, food unfit for human consumption, euthanized animals including collars and all and even newspaper. If you really want to know what's in your pet's food check out Ann Martin's book Food Pets Die For. Ann spent years researching the pet food industry after unexplained sickness in her pets. Dr. Pitcairn also sheds some light on this subject in his book. To get a start on learning about what you should know about pet foods, read this article also by Dr. Becker:

The Things You Never Want to See On Your Pet Food Label

For more on pet food and any questions you may have, please don't hesitate to ask. I will give you my best advice and if I'm not sure will help guide you in the right direction. As always give your pets the best in health, happiness and LOVE!

Pet Food Perils

This is an old post I'd written but still holds true. What you feed your pet may not be as wholesome as it's advertising makes it out to be. Learn what's in your pets' food and how to choose the best nutrition for them. ;)

Pet Food Perils

An article by Rebecca

In light of the recent pet food industry recalls I feel it’s important to have a resource for pet owners where they can find some answers to their questions and concerns about their pet’s nutritional health. Many pet owners have never been given any education about pet nutrition or how to choose a pet food.

What we feed our beloved pets should be healthy and of good quality. But what does this mean? We shouldn’t settle for any less than the quality of food we would put in our bodies. We wouldn’t eat low quality food made from rotten ingredients or harmful chemicals. We wouldn’t eat food that came from suspicious or unknown sources either. But somehow our pets have been subject to these types of foods. Read on for more information on the unimaginable practices in the pet food industry.

The General Rule

If you can buy it in the supermarket it’s not quality food. Though that’s a basic rule, there’s still more to know about pet food. If it’s in a supermarket it’s not quality food, but just because it’s in a pet supply store doesn’t mean it’s all quality food either. You have to learn how to be selective.

Real quality pet food should be “human-grade” and is made by companies dedicated to pet health. You can tell just by reading the ingredient list and by reading the literature on these products. Most of these can be found in pet supply stores and some are special order or online order only. There are many holistic, natural and human grade foods out there that meet the standards of quality pet food. Some of them are: Wellness, Innova, Canidae/Felidae, Solid Gold, & Flint River Ranch.

The 4 D’s of Poor Quality Pet Food: Diseased, Disabled, Dead and Dying

You read right. The 4 d’s describe the quality of foods that poor quality pet food companies use in your pet’s food. These are ingredients deemed unfit for human consumption. Why do they use them? It’s cost effective. And because there are no strict regulations on pet food ingredients, they get away with it. Pet food companies aren’t required to specify the source, quality or quantity of meat used in their product. So their meat may come from suspect sources, undesirable body parts and from diseased or rotting meat.

Many pet food companies use fillers such as corn to bulk up their food, and the majority of the product is filler. These fillers provide no real nutritional value and are often some of the most common allergens that dogs and cats are allergic to. Corn, wheat, soy, eggs, & certain types of proteins are the most common allergens and some are used highly in pet food ingredients.

It’s unbelievable how many pet food companies are filling our pets with unacceptable ingredients and poor nutritional content from poor sources. And the unsuspecting pet parent doesn’t even know what they’re feeding their pets. They only know what they read on the package marketed towards humans. The words “wholesome, nutritious, delicious” make it sound great, but in reality it’s anything but.

The Sad & Sickening Truth

If you thought the 4 d’s were bad, what’s worse is what you’re about to read:

"Dogs and cats euthanized at clinics, pounds and shelters are sold to rendering plants, rendered with other material and sold to the pet food industry. One small rendering plant in Quebec was rendering 10 tons (11 tons) of dogs and cats per week from Ontario. The Ministry of Agriculture in Quebec, where a number of these plants are located, advised me that "The fur is not removed from dogs and cats." and that "Dead animals are cooked together with viscera, bones and fats in 115 C (236 F) for twenty minutes." One large pet food company in the U.S., with extensive research facilities, used rendered dogs and cats in their food for years and when the information came to light "claimed no knowledge of it”

- Ann Martin, Natural Pet Magazine

Ann Martin, author of “Food Pets Die For” And “Protect Your Pet: More Shocking Facts” has done her research. After mysterious illnesses in her own dogs lead her to suspect their food as the culprit and getting no clear answers she decided to take on the pet food industry on her own. This lead to her extensive research on the pet food industry. She has uncovered many of the disturbing practices in the pet food industry.

So we know now that some pet food companies use both undesirable meat sources and unspeakable practices, what else could there be? Well, what’s more is that many pet food companies use chemicals that are known to be toxic and harmful to extend the shelf life of their product and preserve the already tainted ingredients.

"The common chemicals used are BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene), both known to cause liver and kidney dysfunction. Some European countries prohibit the use and importation of these preservatives. Another fat stabiliser often used is Ethoxyquin, suspected of being a cancer-causing agent.” ~Dr Wendell Belfield, DVM, former USDA Vet, "Let's Live" Magazine

 Unfortunately, it’s a reality that the pet food companies are commercial industries. Businesses like anything else, who like many others, make their first priority money. Even when dealing with living beings. It’s unfortunate that although this world has made so much progress where animals are concerned, they still aren’t as important as they should be. Otherwise pet food regulations might be stricter to protect the well being of our companions.

So what is a pet parent to do? Take matters into your own hands and become educated. Read on for some basic facts and resources to help you help keep your pet healthy.

What You Need To Know

Becoming aware of what’s in your pet’s food, learning to read the labels and understand what they mean is your first step in protecting the pets you love. Just because your dog or cat has been fine on the supermarket food they’re eating doesn’t mean it isn’t causing long term damage or shortening their lifespan. Aside from that, it’s just despicable, disturbing and plain out gruesome to think what some pet food companies have put into their foods.

So what’s important to know about labels?

The source – “meat meal”, “bone meal” or “meat by products” doesn’t specify what kind of meat they used. While specific labels like “chicken meal”, “lamb meal” or “beef by-products” give the consumer an idea of what type of meat was used, it still doesn’t specify what quality of meat was used and whether it could be one of the 4 D’s. Look for foods that specify the meat source such as “chicken meal”, “beef meal” and even better those that say “chicken”, “beef”, “duck”.

The quality – the quality of pet foods can be determined by looking at the kinds of ingredients they put into the food and by their information in the literature. Does the company label their food as having "real" ingredients or better yet "human-grade" ingredients?

Do they have ingredients you can recognize or is the ingredient list contaminated with chemical ingredients you can’t even pronounce?  Things like Oatmeal, Ground Barley, Ground Brown Rice, Rye Flour, Canola Oil, , Rice Bran, Whitefish, Carrots, Spinach, Sweet Potatoes, Apples, Blueberries, Flaxseed, Ground Millet are ingredients you want to find along with the main meat source, vitamins and minerals.

The quantity- What ingredient is listed first on the ingredient list? If it’s anything but a recognizable meat or protein source, put it back. Ingredients are listed in order of quantity. The first ingredient should be the main ingredient and just as you wouldn’t feed your child a diet consisting mainly of candy, you shouldn’t feed your pet a diet consisting mainly of filler or nutritionally devoid ingredients.

So what should the pet parent look for? Foods with ingredients that are fit for human consumption, “human-grade” foods. Quality ingredients as the primary ingredients and ingredients you can recognize. Consider the following examples and compare the difference (real pet food manufacturer names have not been revealed):

Literature & Ingredients from a poor quality pet food:

Brand X Original Flavor has the savory taste of Chicken and Beef dogs crave. Brand X combines crunchy kibble and soft, chewy bits for a delicious taste dogs love. You can feel good about feeding your dog Brand X every day because it has 100% Complete and Balanced Nutrition. Each piece provides key ingredients such as: Crunchy kibble with real beef protein and fat for energy and strong muscle tone; Crunchy kibble with carbohydrates and fiber for quick energy and easy digestibility; Soft, chewy bits with vitamins and minerals for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and a shiny coat.

Ingredients:

Corn, Soybean Meal, Beef & Bone Meal, Wheat Flour, Animal Fat (Bha And Citric Acid Used As Preservatives), Corn Syrup, Wheat Middlings, Water Sufficient For Processing, Animal Digest (Source Of Chicken And Beef Flavors), Wheat, Propylene Glycol, Salt, Hydrochloric Acid, Potassium Chloride, Caramel Color, Sorbic Acid (Used As A Preservative), Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Carbonate, Choline Chloride, Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganous Oxide, Copper Sulfate, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite), Vitamins (Vitamin E, Niacin, D-Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Vitamin A, Folic Acid, Biotin, Vitamin B12, Vitamin D3), Calcium Sulfate, Yellow 6, Yellow 5, Red 40, Bha (Used As A Preservative), Dl-Methionine, Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose.

Ingredients are listed in order of quantity. The first ingredient, therefore is present in the largest amounts.
For those who know how to read labels, we know that corn is used as a filler. As the first ingredient we know this company uses it’s filler as the main ingredient. They do this because it’s cheaper. We also know, that although they do specify the “meal” sources, they don’t indicate that they use quality meat ingredients in their literature. What’s more is that the ingredients are largely chemical including BHA which we already learned is harmful. Caramel Color, yellow 6, 5 and red 40 are used to entice the consumer not the pet. And “flavoring” just means they have to add something to the food to make it enticing to pets by covering up all the chemicals and poor quality ingredients contained in the food. For the educated pet parent, this list of ingredients expresses to us that the company doesn’t put pets health first.

Literature Ingredients from a high quality, human-grade ingredient pet food:

Thoughtful Nutrition for the Different Needs of Cats and Dogs

We believe that cats and dogs have different nutritional needs - because cats are carnivores and dogs are omnivores. For cats, we create diets from animal food sources, berries, and other highly digestible ingredients with low magnesium and ash levels. This ensures overall well being, vitality, and urinary tract health. For dogs, we create balanced diets similar to high quality human diets - a healthy blend of meats, vegetables, and grains.

For special diets, such as weight management diets for dogs, or hairball diets for cats, we add carefully selected ingredients such as nutrient-rich fibers. We never use "fillers" and always look for additional ingredient benefits such as higher levels of vitamins and minerals that are available in some fiber sources.

THE BRAND Y WAY: WHAT GOES IN

Quality Protein Sources for Muscular Skeletal Health
We use real meat as our first ingredient and primary source of protein in most of our diets. We also use a delicious digestible combination of other protein sources that offer all the essential amino acids - the building blocks of bone and muscle.

Wholesome Grains for Healthy Fiber and Energy.
We use high quality grains that provide essential vitamins and nutrients, such as oatmeal and barley. For cats, we also use grains like rice which are highly digestible and are low in magnesium (which is particularly important for cats)

Full Rainbow of Fruits and Vegetables for Cell Health

We provide a full rainbow of all-natural antioxidant protection, to help deter over 60 degenerative diseases including kidney disease, heart disease and even cancer.

Carefully Chosen Fats and Oils for Skin & Coat Health

We use wholesome vegetable fats such as sunflower oil, canola oil, flaxseed, and olive oil, which are high in the essential fatty acids such as Linoleic and Alpha Linoleic acids. 

For cats, we also use animal fats such as chicken fat, to provide Arachadonic acid, which cats do not produce for themselves.

Pre- and Pro-Biotics for Digestive Health

We include pro-biotics to provide balanced bacteria in the intestinal tract and prevent harmful bacterial from producing toxins. We include pre-biotics as an important nutrient source to feed the pro-biotics and add additional nutrients for the animal.

Glucosamine and Chondroitin for Joint Health

We add these nutrients for preventative joint maintenance and inflammation reduction. 

Taurine for Heart Health. We add taurine to help prevent certain heart conditions that can occur in dogs and to provide an essential nutrient for cats.

Botanical Extracts for Antioxidant Protection

We add selected botanical extracts such as green tea and lycopene, to provide valuable antioxidants that help fight cell-damaging free radicals.

Ingredients

Whitefish, Ground Barley (dehulled), Rye Flour, Menhaden Fish Meal, Ground Pearled Barley, Sweet Potatoes, Canola Oil (preserved with mixed tocopherols, a natural source of vitamin E), Tomato Pomace (natural source of lycopene), Natural Fish Flavor, Flaxseed, Dicalcium Phosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Potassium Chloride.

The list is small and all the ingredients are recognizable. The first ingredient is not a filler, but rather a quality ingredient. The ingredients are clear about what is contained in the food and uses real human grade ingredients. Clearly this company strives to achieve quality standards for the best health for our pets. They want to make sure you know this by clarifying to the consumer in their literature and the ingredient list what their food is made of.

Only The Beginning

This article is only an introduction to pet food for people who care about their pets. We have come to realize that it’s not just important that we feed our pets regularly, but that we feed them properly and that we know where their food is coming from and what it’s made of.  Choose independent companies who place emphasis on pet health, holistic, natural and human grade ingredients. The same goes for pet treats. For more information and articles with more details and information on how to read labels and choose pet foods, please check out the following links:

Dog Eat Dog: What's Inside The Food We FeedWhat's Really for Dinner? The Truth About Commercial Pet Food
The Pet Food Industry and Its Questionable Practices 
Dr. Jane Bicks, HealthyPetNet: Do You Really Know What's In Your Pet's Food?
The Actual Ingredients Meat Based Pet Food Companies Use in Dry and Canned Foods 
(downloads as a microsoft word document)

For a guide to pet food ingredients check out:

Dog Food Comparison Charts 

Feed your animals bodies with healthy food and their hearts with healthy love.

~Rebecca~

Can Dogs Live Happily Outdoors?

Believe it or not, many people still leave their dogs to live outside in this day and age - and I've been called upon to try and help. Though it might seem that a dog would be happy living outdoors, the reverse is actually true.  Not only can dogs suffer from frostbite, heatstroke and dehydration but they can also suffer psychological damage and develop behavioral problems that stem from lack of companionship and social interaction. Dogs are, by nature, social animals who crave and thrive on human and animal companionship. Dogs destined to a life outdoors lack the social bonds that indoor family dogs have. While some argue that the reason they have a dog is to protect their home, the irony is - a dog who does not live in the home will not be likely to protect it since it isn't theirs. 

Many of the calls that come into animal rescue and welfare organizations are calls about outdoor dogs. We feel such the need to rescue them from a life of isolation, extreme temperatures, loneliness and lack of companionship. While our dogs sleep curled up in a warm home on their fluffy dog beds and sometimes in ours we lie awake agonizing over how we can better the lives of those less fortunate. Unfortunately, the laws for animals only require that dogs who are kept outdoors are given the bare minimum. That includes appropriate shelter from weather, clean water and food.  Love is, unfortunately, not part of those requirements.

Rescue organizations and well-run shelters will not adopt to any owner that doesn't intend to keep their dog as an indoor, family pet. Why? Because they want the best for the animals and they understand what  the experts know. 

The experts say it best,  in author and canine behavior expert Pat Miller's 'The Great, Awful Outdoors' she explains why it isn't just nice to bring dogs indoor, it's crucial to their physical, mental and behavioral well-being. 

Read more at the links below for excellent resources on how to help outdoor dogs, how to help bring outdoor dogs in and why leaving dogs outdoors is plain and simple no life for a dog.

Backyard Dog, Outdoor Dog: Facts, Guidance, Solutions

Man's Best Friend or Living Lawn Ornament?

Outdoor Dogs

We give them the love we can spare, the time we can spare. In return dogs have given us their absolute all. It is without a doubt the best deal man has ever made. -Roger Caras